Firstly, Harbin isn't technica-lly in Siberia. It nearly is, and it sounded good. Administratively it's in Heilongjiang province; regionally speaking it's in Manchuria (you know, that place that had a Candidate). But if you went about 300 miles north of here, you would be over the Russian border and in, yes, Siberia. Also, you know how when you’re going on holiday, and you suggest packing some obscure item which you might just need, or even extra toothpaste or something, and your other half argues, ‘We’ll buy it when we’re there if we need it – it’s not Outer Mongolia we’re going to!’? Well, for us it almost is. If you look at a map of China, we're in the bit on the top right which sticks up between Russia and Mongolia (Outer, the country; Inner Mongolia - yes, it exists - is the next Chinese province down. Peter has to arrange a symposium there, in the capital, Hohhot. I'm not making this up). A lot of the locals here look less Chinese and more like the Tuvan throat-singers or those Mongolian guys you see on telly, galloping about the steppes on horseback.
The city of Harbin was founded by Russians working on the construction of the Trans-Siberian railway, which actually still stops here. The Russian community is mostly long gone, but their influence remains in some of the architecture (see pics), food, and the fact that Vladivostock and one other Russian town just over the border are the only international flight destinations from Harbin airport. There's also the odd group of Russian tourists about, and one Russian TV channel on satellite in the hotel.
Which brings me to my other, unrelated point. I hate hotels. I just had to let it be said. I hate them, with a passion. The more stars they've got, the more I hate them. They cost a fortune and expect you to pay up front, even though we're here at the company's expense and would never stay anywhere as expensive as this out of choice. I've just had to pay £72 to get two weeks' washing done (well, we're not paying, but you know what I mean). They are mostly decorated in brown leatherette. You can't relax for people constantly knocking on your door offering 'turn-down service' - like I can't get into bed without someone showing me how - or bringing you stuff (never stuff you actually want; one day in Shanghai last week, someone banged furiously at the door, yelling in a way which made me think there must be a fire at the very least, and when I opened the door the maid was standing there with one of the little Kit-Kats they put on your pillow if you let them 'turn you down'. Where but a hotel could there be a Kit-Kat related emergency?). If you want a lie-in, you not only miss breakfast but don't get your room done until some incredibly inconvenient time. If you put the 'Do Not Disturb' sign on the door, it's guaranteed that will be the one occasion when they try to bring you something you actually DO want, like your clean laundry, and it's then a huge hassle to get it later. And don't even get me started on the ridiculous stuff they provide in the bathroom. Is there anyone on the planet who actually travels without a toothbrush? Or genuinely uses the hotel sewing kit, rather than just nicking it?
And another thing. Ok so I'm in China and it's my fault I don't speak Chinese, I get that, but if hotels are going to cater for westerners, have their menus in English as well and employ some 'English-speaking' staff, then why do they not at least teach them the English words relevant to the hotel trade? And familiarise them with the English translations of the menu, so that when you ask for a pillow, or toilet paper, they know what you mean, and when you order room service it doesn't take ten minutes of phone non-communication to get them to understand what you're asking for, even though it's printed in front of them? Even the in-room breakfast menu which you fill out yourself is like a game of Russian roulette. If you ask for 'Cereal and toast for two persons', you might get 4 slices of toast with butter but no knife, a big bowl of cereal and two spoons. Or you might get 8 slices of toast, two bowls of cereal and one spoon. Or no spoon. Or even a knife and fork. I suppose it all adds to the spice of life, but it does get tiresome very quickly when this is where you actually LIVE.
Hope that's clear then.
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